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FENDI REFLECTIONS 2021春夏女士系列和男士系列

國外時(shí)裝周 2020-09-24 16:16 來源：

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Seen through the looking glass, the FENDI Women’s and Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Collections are a patchwork of memories designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi. Time spent with family – generations reunited at home in Rome – is a catalyst for quiet introspection: at the window or in the garden, watching the world go by.

透過鏡子望向另一側(cè)，Silvia Venturini Fendi 將回憶中的點(diǎn)點(diǎn)滴滴匯集成了FENDI 2021春夏女士系列和男士系列。羅馬的這座家族大宅見證了幾代人重聚的幸福時(shí)光，與家人相處的點(diǎn)滴推動(dòng)著設(shè)計(jì)師安靜地審視內(nèi)心深處的自我：立在窗畔或身在花園，看著斗轉(zhuǎn)星移、世事變遷。

From the inside looking out, and the outside looking in, shadows and reflections are cast across the collections. Intimacy is abstracted through signposts of domestic life – a trousseau of stories unpacked and unfolded in a weaving together of the precious and the plain. The purity of linen is vital: romanced with cotton, feathers, fur and eiderdown quilting, it conjures images of embroidered bedding and tableware – maternal souvenirs passed down from mother to child. A flaxen palette breathes in natural shades of wheat, milk and honey amidst reflections of sky blue and cardinal red, as cinematic black and white shine like spotlights cast on cloth. Windows – metaphorical and physical – are a leitmotif impressed upon garments in a game of transparency and texture throughout.

不論是由內(nèi)而外，還是由外而內(nèi)，陰影和倒影元素貫穿了系列始終。精挑細(xì)選的設(shè)計(jì)元素源自居家生活，反應(yīng)出了人際關(guān)系的親密無間——難忘回憶與日常起居的生活片段相互交織，一個(gè)個(gè)生動(dòng)的故事徐徐展開。亞麻材質(zhì)的天然純粹是本系列的核心：純棉、羽毛、皮草和衍縫羽絨面料又注入了更多浪漫的氣息，讓人不禁想起刺繡精致的床品和餐桌藝術(shù)——這些代代相傳的日常事物承載著母親對(duì)兒女深深的愛。以亞麻色為基調(diào)，小麥色、奶白色、蜂蜜色等在點(diǎn)綴著天藍(lán)與鮮紅的倒影中融入了自然的清新，而黑色和白色如同聚光燈般成為了面料上最引人注目的焦點(diǎn)。本季的男裝系列和女裝系列就像是一場(chǎng)圍繞透明度和質(zhì)地而展開的游戲，窗口則成為了衣物印花的中心元素。

In tandem, the Women’s and Men’s Collections explore FENDI traditions stripped bare – from boutis satin quilting to the linear encrustations of jour d’echelle ladder-work and flourishes of ajouré flowers that expose skin to create layers of light and shade. Formal structures are softened – coat backs and shirt sleeves unbutton, tailored details are ‘debossed’ in trompe l’oeil knitwear, and embroidered house coats and flared tunics elevate the comforts of home. Lightness and depth intermingle in faded flora print linens and latticework furs, or the intricate workmanship of apron dresses in silk duchesse, embroidered tulle and gazar. Acknowledging the gravity of a moment, clothes tell stories of the rigour of Italian craft and the emotion of our universal experience – FENDI workmanship applied under surreal circumstances.

本季女裝系列和男裝系列對(duì)FENDI傳統(tǒng)進(jìn)行了窮盡式探索——從boutis工藝衍縫真絲到j(luò)our d’echelle硬朗的梯形線條，再到無處不在的ajouré印花；印花通過巧妙的露膚設(shè)計(jì)制造出豐富的光影層次。嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)?shù)恼b變得更加親切隨和——大衣后片和襯衫袖口的扣子敞開著，trompe l’oeil錯(cuò)視藝術(shù)的定制細(xì)節(jié)更加隱秘低調(diào)，精美的刺繡居家袍和下擺散開的上衣為居家時(shí)光平添幾分愜意。做舊質(zhì)感的印花亞麻面料，網(wǎng)格皮草，由絲綢、刺繡薄紗和gazar透明薄紗制成的連衫圍裙，既有輕盈的躍動(dòng)，又有厚重的沉穩(wěn)，而其所彰顯的高超工藝更是令人嘆為觀止。

The FENDI Women’s and Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Accessories collections play with construction and embellishment to conceal and reveal. In movement, embroidered silk veils float over Baguette and Peekaboo bags in floral fur and cotton ajouré or quilted FF logo leather. Woven textures abound: market baskets in recycled PVC, stretch lattice frame totes, picnic baskets and canvas luggage are pragmatic and light-hearted solutions for daily life.

FENDI 2021春夏女士和男士配飾系列在建筑感和裝飾性上大做文章，把 “隱” 、 “現(xiàn)” 意味表現(xiàn)得淋漓盡致。繡有精美圖案的絲巾隨著模特的步伐輕盈起舞，Baguette手袋和Peekaboo手袋在薄紗的掩映中若隱若現(xiàn)。這些新款手袋的材質(zhì)包括印花皮草、棉質(zhì)ajouré和飾有FF logo的絎縫皮革。編織元素是本季配飾系列的另一大亮點(diǎn)：由再生PVC制成的購物筐、可拉伸的格構(gòu)架tote手袋；野餐籃和帆布行李包在日常場(chǎng)景中用途廣泛，是輕松生活的不二之選。

The ‘hand in hand’ Baguette project celebrates a unique collaboration with local artisans across Italy, including the Abruzzo and Marche regions shown on the runway. Handcrafted in Abruzzo, a sheer Baguette is constructed in tombolo aquilano sugar-coated lace, a technique refined by Benedictine nuns since the 15th century. From Marche, a structured Baguette woven in strands of natural willow is inspired by the baskets of local fishermen.

“hand in hand” Baguette手袋項(xiàng)目則是FENDI與意大利境內(nèi)各地區(qū)杰出手工藝人的合作典范，由阿布魯佐（Abruzzo）和馬爾凱（Marche）當(dāng)?shù)亟橙耸止ぶ谱鞯腂aguette手袋也現(xiàn)身秀場(chǎng)。Abruzzo匠人純手工完成的Baguette手袋全部由糖霜般的tombolo aquilano蕾絲制成，通體透明，精巧至極。自15世紀(jì)以來，經(jīng)由本篤會(huì)修女們的不斷完善、改進(jìn)這項(xiàng)技藝，最終形成了我們今天見到的面貌。來自Marche的手工藝人則以當(dāng)?shù)貪O民的柳木漁籃為靈感，用天然柳木編結(jié)出了Baguette手袋。

Laser-cut and ajouré apron belts hold the second iteration of the FENDI X CHAOS ‘tech jewellery’ capsule collection dipped in pastel colours, and chain drop earrings feature pearls and pairs of cheeky FENDI dice.

FENDI X CHAOS共同打造的膠囊配飾系列 “科技珠寶” 也推出了最新一季的作品：不論是多種色彩的激光切割技術(shù)和ajouré腰帶，還是飾有珍珠和FENDI骰子的鏈?zhǔn)蕉鷫嫞竽憚?chuàng)新的精神無處不在。

On foot for Women – woven boots, elastic pumps, and rattan pool slides evoke a tonal spring elegance. For Men – sling-back boat shoes and T-bar plimsolls are new twisted classics.

在女士鞋履部分——編織質(zhì)地的靴子、彈力十足的高跟鞋和藤編坡跟鞋優(yōu)雅大方，春日活力撲面而來。在男士鞋履方面，露跟船鞋和T字鞋面膠底帆布鞋為經(jīng)典款式注入了新的活力。

THE SHOW SETTING

秀場(chǎng)背景

At the FENDI show space in Milan, the Women’s and Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Collections designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi are unveiled together in an intimate fashion show setting evoking the traditional and domestic inspirations of the collections. An airy scenography composed of fresh white curtains floats in the breeze – complemented by the undulating sofas that return from the Fall Winter 2020-21 Women’s show set, now covered in white cotton.

Silvia Venturini Fendi 設(shè)計(jì)的FENDI 2021春夏女士系列和男士系列秀場(chǎng)設(shè)在米蘭，兩大系列同時(shí)發(fā)布，秀場(chǎng)設(shè)置也充滿了來自FENDI 傳統(tǒng)元素和居家生活的靈感細(xì)節(jié)。白色的窗簾隨風(fēng)飄蕩，營造出空靈的透視感，來自FENDI 2020-21 秋冬女士系列秀場(chǎng)的波浪形沙發(fā)也搖身一變，披上了純白色的棉布外衣，與窗簾設(shè)計(jì)遙相呼應(yīng)。

A series of luminous vignettes punctuates the space – digital ‘windows’ projected across walls and floors revealing glimpses of the outside world, from garden flora to passing birds and the day’s cycle of the setting sun. As models walk through the show set, each window projects a unique story across their looks, creating fleeting moments of shadow and light that accentuate the workmanship of each garment.

隨著一系列熒光元素的加入，秀場(chǎng)空間變得錯(cuò)落有致——投影在墻面和地板上的數(shù)字“窗口”展現(xiàn)出不同圖案，既有花園中的花朵，也有劃過天空的飛鳥，也有代表著一日終結(jié)的落日；而這些都指向了來自外部世界的打量。模特魚貫而出，每套造型都與窗戶中的故事一一對(duì)應(yīng)，光與影在此刻交錯(cuò)，明暗對(duì)比間服飾的精致做工得到了最大限度的突出。

Continuing the personal narrative of the Fendi Family, the show casting includes a selection of related models: mothers, fathers, sisters and sons include Edie and Olympia Campbell, Cecilia and Lucas Chancellor, and Philippe and Dries Haseldonckx.

設(shè)計(jì)師透過她的視角用服飾來解讀FENDI家族，超模Edie Campbell和Olympia Campbell，Cecilia Chancellor和Lucas Chancellor，Philippe Haseldonckx和Dries Haseldonckx各自展現(xiàn)了母親、父親、姐妹和兒子的家庭角色。

For guests watching at home, a dual digital format splices together live footage of the fashion show with pre-recorded clips by the German director Norbert Schoerner.

FENDI將現(xiàn)場(chǎng)走秀視頻與預(yù)錄視頻結(jié)合起來進(jìn)行在線播放，讓在家觀看的觀眾能夠獲得更好的體驗(yàn)。預(yù)錄視頻由德國導(dǎo)演Norbert Schoerner執(zhí)導(dǎo)拍攝。

THE MUSIC

秀場(chǎng)音樂

Mixed live by the Italian musician Lorenzo Senni with a live string quartet, the FENDI Spring Summer 2021 Fashion Show soundtrack is an original synthesizer composition featuring an extract from the film The Challenge composed by Senni and tracks from his album Scacco Matto (2020). Known for the invention of ‘pointillist trance’ music, Senni follows in a line of new wave Italian electronic musicians to collaborate with the house of FENDI, with previous artists including Caterina Barbieri, Ninos du Brasil, Donato Dozzy and Alessandro Cortini.

FENDI 2021春夏秀場(chǎng)背景音樂是原創(chuàng)的合成器作品，由意大利音樂家Lorenzo Senni和現(xiàn)場(chǎng)演奏的弦樂四重奏樂團(tuán)共同完成。他們共同演奏了Senni為電影《The Challenge》創(chuàng)作的原聲音樂片段和他2020年的專輯《Scacco Matto》中的作品。音樂流派 “pointillist trance”的創(chuàng)始人是Senni最為人所熟知的頭銜，此前FENDI已與多位意大利新一代電子音樂人進(jìn)行了合作，包括Caterina Barbieri、Ninos du Brasil、Donato Dozzy和Alessandro Cortini等，今天Senni也成為了其中一員。

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